A reminder of God's promise

While standing on the porch of the Taigh Marie in St. Ann's in Cape Breton watching the rain fall, a rainbow appeared over the St. Ann's Bay. Breathtaking...

Ceilidh pictures from Cape Breton

"Ceilidh here tonight!" Watching for these signs, I found a Ceilidh at the St. Michael Parish Hall. Fiddlin', story telling, learning Gaelic and dancing. A fun night!

Newfoundland pictures

Mar sin leibh - Scottish gaelic for Good-bye.

Heading out of Nova Scotia tomorrow -- very rainy and gray today. Puttered around getting things organized to send off via post (too much fabric and yarn I'm afraid!). Then walked to downtown Dartmouth. This place is so different from downtown Halifax. I walked by what appeared to be a soup kitchen...a line of people waiting outside with bags and personal items. One guy was swearing at someone down the road telling them to "Go back to the States if you can't give me even a loonie!" (note: a loonie is a dollar coin here, a toonie is a two dollar coin). He brushed by me without really noticing me. I'm wearing typical Penny attire (orange tie-dye shirt and jeans that have gotten too big) so I must not look like a tourista so he didn't ask me for money.

A block further down I saw some older men sitting on a stone wall smoking a cigarette between them. Tobacco is very expensive here (Over $11!) so I guess they are sharing the expense. They were sitting outside a Tim Horton's (chain eatery with homemade pastries and deli sandwiches) watching the people going in and coming out with bags of food and hot cups of tea. As I walked by one of the guys looked up and smiled at me. It changed his whole face from one of no hope to one of its not so bad, at least its not raining and I'm sharing a cig with some friends. I called out good day, how are you? (from a safe distance, really) and he answered, fine, a good day for tea and told me I should have a nice walk.

I didn't know if I should offer money as it might be rude. They didn't have a pot out or anything (I saw some in Halifax yesterday where people sat and played for music or told tales and they had money pots in front of them). He didn't ask either. I had a couple of toonies in my pocket for my own lunch but kept walking. When I got to the ferry, I turned back and looked. He was still watching me so I headed back up the street and silently held out 2 of the toonies and he took them with a nod of thanks. Then I headed back down the street and found myself here at the libary to think it all through.

I have spent 2 weeks in a foreign country that didn't seem so foreign to me. The english dialect was a bit different from mine sometimes (and you know how I oddly start picking up accents and dialects? Was confusing even me when I spoke!). The food was similar except I had seafood almost every day and tried things like Rappie (meat pie), oatcakes, King Cole Tea, Flaky, Seaman's Pie, Pinteune and Rabble. The music was familiar because of my Dad's love for the Cajun music and mine for bluegrass/folk. But there weren't huge pockets of wealthy people or even upper middle class. Sure, one place we stayed the people seemed very upper middle class in their tastes and manners, but for the most part we have interacted with common folk like us. People trying to make a living and finding good in life.

Parts of Cape Breton were very much tourist spots but here and there were small towns with stores that we stopped in to buy biscuits or tea or coffee and chat with the locals. Baddeck was truly a tourist spot when I was there so I enjoyed hanging out at the Gaelic college instead talking to the pipers and workers there and learning about the history of St. Ann's, Tartans, Clans. Or sitting on the porch, crocheting a scarf and watching the Cape Breton lands. Or searching out some local music.

Newfoundland seemed the most simple to me. A few small villages strung together to make a living at fishing. Some of their people have jobs outside of Nfld and travel home every once in a while. A hard place to live yet it seemed it was more full of life.

So coming to Halifax/Dartmouth was a bit hard for me. I spent the day immersed in tourist stuff and although I found refuge in a few places (the park for lunch and the museum checking out the explosion of 1917 while the rest of the tourists oohed and ahhed over the Titanic stuff), I still felt I was in a tourist place. Not a real city or real people.

So the walk about this morning around Dartmouth was good for me. Showed me the side most tourists don't see or want to see. That no matter where we travel in the world, there are still forgotten people. People who are lost in some way whether they no longer have a safe place to stay, food to eat or a job to get them those things. People who may have chosen to forgo medications because it bothers them, makes them feel weird and they feel 'normal' without it. Perhaps some of the people I saw today just don't have the advocate to speak for them whether its for better meds, a home, a job or some food.

So, that is enough somber stuff on a gray and rainy day in Dartmouth, Nova Scotia. Tomorrow I go home and see my family, friends and my very missed cat, Sassy. I will have shipped the few souvenirs I bought for them and the tartan and yarns I bought for my winter projects so my suitcase will just be filled with the usual dirty laundry, stray flyers and unused swimming gear (way too chilly). Oh! And the much used and loved walking stick!

Pictures will be posted on this blog later and I'll finish out my personal travel journal with last minute memories of places visited and recipes swapped. And although I have been to the 'rock' (nickname for Newfoundland), seen a tidal bore, visited a ton of museums, got my fix of the Halifax Explosion of 1917 and learned about Celidihs and Newfies and a smattering of Gaelic, I think it most fitting that one of my last encounters on this trip was with a group of older gentleman sitting on a curb sharing a cigarette and wishing for a spot of tea.

Some of these posts have been long winded, I know, but I hope you have enjoyed them at times. Thinking I might go to the Peace Pavillion as my last tourista spot. Some youth set it up a few years back -- asked countries to send rocks for their collection as a sign that we are all from the same rock (earth I suppose). Or I might go have some tea and an oatcake for lunch with my leftover toonie and finish the last of the postcards.

See ya'll soon. Tha mi gad iondrainn! (Miss you!)
Penny

The Public Library and missing home...

I have always loved libraries -- sure enough, when I got to Dartmouth I checked to see where the library was...a mere 10 minute walk from the B&B. After trekking around Halifax for the day (more later) I arrived at the library just to look around. Seems if I ask very nicely they will give me a temporary (1 hour) membership to use the internet. One time per day, only. That is awesome!

Just spoke to Dad on the phone to check-in -- haven't done that this whole vacation. Figured no news was good news and he had all the pertinent dates/phone numbers. Was great to hear his voice. All is well at the homestead -- he said he and Sassy are great buds and will give her some extra pets for me. Talked baseball (of course) and caught up with all his doings.

As for Halifax, took the FRED (Free Ride Everywhere Downtime) to check out where things were -- the Citadel is on a HUGE hill and I may check it out tomorrow. Picked up a bohemian lunch and at it at the Cornwallis Park and listened/watched a bunch of kids play with their dads. Must've been a special dad/kid day or something. Was good to hear children laughter again.

Walked down to Pier 21 (great historical site of immigrants) but there was a line to get in so I headed towards the Maritime museum. Made a stop at a wine cellary to find out how to get Jost Wine in the states. Will have to have Kip/Kathy Earney order it from West End Liquor direct from Nova Scotia -- worth it, trust me!

Found a place processing Rum -- what an amazing smell! Very educational, too. All about the Rum runs of old. Purchased and had sent home 2 rum cakes -- one original and one made from that great Breton Single Malt scotch -- should arrive about 2 weeks after I do!

Spent the huge part of the day at the Maritime Museum touring the Halifax explosion section and going on a tour. Check out this web page to find out what drew me to Nova Scotia in the first place: http://www.cbc.ca/halifaxexplosion

Heading back to the Celtic Corner in a bit for a pint of Keith's Indian Pale Ale (yes, there is a brewery here but its lower on my list for tomorrow as I'm hoping to hit the Citadel, the Public Gardens and the Peace Pavillion -- plus I have to arrange to ship some things home before the post closes tomorrow night!). Hopefully some more live music tonight. Been eating okay -- walking a ton and making sure I get a good cardio walk in before the tourista strolling! Clothes fit okay so far so must be doing okay. Remembering General Jenny's adage: all things in moderation and exercise exercise exercise. I can tell I haven't done any weightlifting as my left arm/shoulder is very very sore. Spend a few minutes each morning and evening doing my exercises and stretching (thanks, Dr. Torchia!).

Have decided to tackle the Citadel Hill tomorrow as my cardio -- yikes! Feel free to pray for me!

Hope to catch up with Laura later tonight and burn some of my saved photos to a CD.

Well, that about does it here for now. The sunsets are amazing -- I found some apartments (overlooking the Keith's brewery and amazingly close to the harbor) for rent -- quite reasonable! I suppose since the internet service here is very good (as oppossed to Newfoundland or Cape Breton) I'd have to set=up my Mayo Martime Atlantic station in Halifax! I wonder how Marty/Joanne will feel about that??

Oh! Some news for Sam Frick -- there is a tug here by the name of Theodore! I took photos of me and Theodore and will email them to your Mommy when I get back to Minnesota this weekend. Note for Kate Bailey -- picked up some coloring pictures for you as well as crayons! Cubbies and crew -- sent Newfie candies from Doyles, NL last week. The post mistress said it could take weeks!!! It will be like Christmas!

Miss you all. Even kinda miss work (okay, not really and Marty, I have forgotten my password so vacation time must almost be up!).

Jam pots

It seems that there is this grouping of jam pots that every B&B must have...and they can't be found anywhere as they aren't made anymore. Perhaps you or your grandparents have them -- they are round with a top with a plastic fruit encased in it. The series is: Strawberries, peaches, raspberries and blueberries. Apparently, the blueberry one is very rare. So after hearing about the rarity of these jam pots from several people, Laura was out and about and FOUND A BLUEBERRY ONE!! Very inexpensive -- I think it is her favorite purchase thus far.

The Blockhouse Hill B&B is wonderful. A separate sitting room where they bring coffee and the paper in the early morn. Marian makes her own granola and it was wonderful on peaches from their peach tree. There are very few peaches left on the tree but if I stretched my arm out one of my windows in the bedroom I could reach one.

Walked around the Dartmouth harbor last night and tipped a pint of Kieth's at the pub and listened to some amazing music. Going to finish up my coffee, do some reading of the places I'm headed then catch the little ferry across the harbour to Halifax to learn more about the explosion of the Narrows -- the whole reason I came!

Hope all is well in Minnesota. Read/heard of the 'friendly fire' between us and Canada -- what a horrible term, friendly fire, but can't think of another one.

Actually, I'm almost ready to be home. Last night I had my first feeling of being homesick.

Will blog more later!!

Back in Civilization part 2

At a great B&B in Dartmouth -- blockhouse hill. Just minutes from everything -- via foot! Cape Breton was breathtaking -- purchased some tartan for wallhangings/quilt and am crocheting a scarf! MUSIC MUSIC MUSIC. The best. Enough for now. Just letting you know I am still alive! Home on Thursday. Miss Dad and Sassy a ton!

Minnesota or Newfoundland? Tough call...

I think my family will be glad that I discovered Minnesota before Newfoundland. The people, location and food seemed like home to me. Were invited to a local talent night on the way to the night ferry so stopped in and listened to some "newfie" music. Met Dion and the Garage Band (pronounced "Gay-redge"). Saw several people there we had met in Codroy Valley -- Melinda and Bernadette from the tea house

Got some great recipes there -- Flaky, Jigg's Dinner and Pease Pudding -- guess what? I now know what Pease Porridge Pot means! Remember? Pease Porridge Hot, Pease Porridge Cold, Pease Porridge in the pot 9 days old. Some like it hot, some like it cold, some like it in the pot 9 days old!" It is a split pea recipe cooked in a bag. I picked up a kit and am ready to give it a try when I come home!

Also saw the lighthouse keeper's wife there as well as people from the grocery store (no dried cod flakes or salt beef for traveling will try else where!). Met several locals and loved the music. They even did a shout out to the "Girls from Minnesota". Will upload pics of Newfoundland later.

Sitting in a cafe waiting for Laura to do some laundry down the street. We are in Baddeck, NS just off the Cabot Trail after crossing the ocean last night. I was able to do my laundry at the light house one day while Laura was out exploring shopping in NL. I had a quiet day at Cape Anguille/Codroy having tea with some folks, taking long hikes and just listening to the ocean. So far, my favorite day.

The folks in Codroy were great, though. Carol and her niece Carol took great care of us and their scores of aunts/sisters dropped by. Carol made me a crocheted washcloth and stove towel as a going away gift. We traded recipes and addresses.

I truly hope to make it back there someday. The "Carols" and I agreed we felt like family. Kewl beans.

Oh! Sent a ton of stuff home (food stuffs, books, a few souvenirs) and it should arrive in 7-10 days. Sending off postcards today so be looking for them.

Miss you but am enjoying myself a bunch. Now, if I could just figure out a way to make a Mayo way station in Newfoundland...

On Beyond Zebra

you can double click photos for better viewing!






"Said Conrad Cornelius O'Donald O'Dell,
My very young friend who is learning to spell:
'The A is for Ape. And the B is for Bear. The C is for Camel and the H is for Hare. The M is for Mouse and the R is for Rat. I know all the twenty size letters like that..." And I said, "You can stop, if you want, with the Z, because most people stop with the Z but not me!"

pics from today

Fletcher's where we had breakfast...and met Dave and his new girlfriend. The first landing of settlers and the tidal bore area in Truro -- thirteen hours later, 40 feet high and Laura would've been swimming! our yard sale and church cemetary excursions.

Dulse?

Today we learned about Tidal Bores - we started in Truro and made our way to Cape d'Or. We shopped along the way at YARD SALES (go figure...we are weird - we found folk art -- someone's brother took tree mold (yeah, tree mold) and painted it -- we had to buy one -- look for pics later). Everyone here is so friendly -- we have made tons of friends and even given out this blog to them! We stopped at church bazaars -- Laura got some fresh today homemade jam and I picked up a great church cookbook!!! A lady at a quilt place was selling something called Dulse. It is seaweed and when the tidal bores are out and the ocean floor is bare for up to 13 hour, people walk out onto the ocean floor and pick this seawood and dry it on shore. When the ocean rushes back (sometimes with a tide level over 52 feet!), they have this wonderful salty snack. It is dried and better harvested in summer they say. We'll report back! At Cape D'Or I made a great discovery about myself -- see blog above! But first we stopped in Parrsboro where we met Gordon -- a man in his 70's. His 45 year hobby of tracking the Tidal Bores has kept him busy and a walking encyclopedia. We learned a ton! He invited us to an early potluck supper in Diligence down the road but we were in a hurry to get to Cape D' Or before the sun set. It was worth the trip! On the way back to our cottage in Truro, we stopped at Five Islands and had supper -- best chowder ever! Laura had her first, but not last, lobster roll. The waitress grew up speaking french and english -- and listening to old Country which was on the radio tonight. We chatted about Willie, Waylon and the boys and our learning Johnny Cash songs. Music is universal!

Tomorrow, we head to North Sydney to prepare for Newfoundland. After a great breakfast of fresh picked blueberries, yogurt and these amazing little powder biscuits this lady makes -- we found them on one of our quirky stops for lunch!

A long, but great day!

Life is good in Canada

We are here! Not a bad day's travel. MSP to Detroit...had a healthy lunch and bought some traveling books -- Laura is reading Crime and Punishment by Fyodor Dosteoevsky , Penny's fare is much lighter with The Traveler by John Twelve Hawks. Laura is jealous...her only other 'light read' is To Kill a Mockingbird...someone needs to remind her she DOES receive the NY Times Book Review every Sunday!) Also picked up Will Shortz' Sudoku for summer vacations!

Flight from Detroit to Halifax was interesting...one flight attendant for the passengers (a mere 60 passengers). Halifax at night as we arrived laid out like a jeweled necklace set complete with earbobs and a bracelet...the coastline was lit and the way the bays wrapped in and around Halifax/Dartmouth was breathtaking -- can't wait to see it in the day time.

Our hotel is the Rainbow Hotel in Truro...very Mom and Pop place. The owner's son was a bit disappointed that we had missed the Dr. Hook concert and so did he because we were so late arriving! The motel is like little cottages strung along the town street. There are orange bedskirts!!! Very 50's I think. Good news -- the water is POTABLE!

Late, now. 2 hours ahead of MN. Thinking of our family and pets. Time to do some tourtista reading (Tidal Bores tomorrow and the search begins for the greatest cup of coffee in the Atlantic Maritimes!).

We leave you with this from Lao Tzu: A journey of a thousand miles begin with a single step.